I have a 7am flight tomorrow morning to Bali and about a million thoughts in my head. I guess that's the benefit of having limited internet connection. I can mull things over a bit without getting too distracted by pop culture curiosities, like whether or not Divergent is actually a good movie.
It's my last night night in Flores, and I'm now staying at the YDD office in Maumere. What I like about YDD offices in Flores is that they double up as houses for employees, so they're rather cozy and lived in. The past few nights I've been eating dinner in the living room, making very sparse but pleasant-enough conversation with the head of YDD-Maumere. He's a pretty important guy, having been with the org since 1982, back when YDD was still doing water-related work in Kupang!
From these YDD-Flores employees, I've been hearing a lot about a previous VIA fellow that lived in Maumere for about a month. It seems she left quite an impression on people. Hearing about her experiences in this or that island makes me a bit envious that I couldn't spend more time working with the people here, but I am grateful, nevertheless, for even having one week to visit this gorgeous island.
Coming to Flores has been helpful in reminding me about why I'm here. In the office it's so easy to get caught up in international NGO politics, paperwork, funding, and egos that you sometimes forget about who you're really trying to work with: the community, or masyarakat. Having the opportunity to meet the community, and to witness them in action, has been inspiring and motivating.
I can see why YDD's work is important, because they act as a bit of catalyst to get things moving. YDD analyzes the situation by doing research on the ground, develops a possible solution with the community, and finds ways to fund the proposed projects. After implementing the project, they go around trying to monitor and evaluate by, again, talking with the people. In all steps of the process, YDD makes an effort to engage the community, and that's something I really appreciate. Although some past projects were not as sustainable as they would've preferred (it sounds like SODIS may be an example, for cultural reasons), I can definitely see how YDD's presence is making a positive lasting impact on the community here, especially where sanitation is concerned.
Sleeeeeeep!
Friday, March 28, 2014
Wednesday, March 26, 2014
Day 6: Wae Bao
Today was a more low-key day. Bu Chris really wanted me to get out more in the field, so she arranged for me to visit one of the desa we work with on the northeast peninsula of Flores, a small remote village of 1500 people, called Wae Bao. The main issue there, according to Pak Rafael, is water scarcity, so YDD/SIMAVI is currently working with the locals to establish a rain catchment that will be about 5m deep and 500m in circumference. Unfortunately, I ran into some communication difficulties and didn't quite understand the details behind the current construction work, but it definitely had something to do with piping…
The ride there was very scenic and I spent a lot of time looking outside the window. It took us about 2.5 hours from Larantuka on a very bumpy (and sometimes nonexistent) road. At times we were driving through a jungle, covered in a variety of trees and shrubs, while other moments we were right up against the coast, crystal clear water and mountains standing at a distance. It was peace for the eyes, let me tell you.
I also saw young girls gathering wood in the forest, which is something I am aware of because of Clean Cookstove program, but until now never witnessed in person. Although the YDD house in Wae Bao is equipped with a kompor minyak (kerosene stove), locals still primarily use a three-stoned wood fire for cooking. They do not use ceramic stoves in Flores Timur, like they do around Java.
Tomorrow after lunch I'll be heading back to Maumere. Again, pictures will follow when I have better internet connection...
The ride there was very scenic and I spent a lot of time looking outside the window. It took us about 2.5 hours from Larantuka on a very bumpy (and sometimes nonexistent) road. At times we were driving through a jungle, covered in a variety of trees and shrubs, while other moments we were right up against the coast, crystal clear water and mountains standing at a distance. It was peace for the eyes, let me tell you.
I also saw young girls gathering wood in the forest, which is something I am aware of because of Clean Cookstove program, but until now never witnessed in person. Although the YDD house in Wae Bao is equipped with a kompor minyak (kerosene stove), locals still primarily use a three-stoned wood fire for cooking. They do not use ceramic stoves in Flores Timur, like they do around Java.
Tomorrow after lunch I'll be heading back to Maumere. Again, pictures will follow when I have better internet connection...
Tuesday, March 25, 2014
Day 5: Epic Entry
Wow what a day. There are so many things going on in my head right now that I think I need to split this entry up in topics rather than organize it chronologically. But brace yourself and get comfortable. I already know this is going to be an epic entry.
A. The Making of Squat Toilets and Molds
The last few days I've had the pleasure of witnessing an artisan process of making squat toilets, as well as the molds that are used to create them. The former involves different layers and mixtures of cement, calcite, and sand, using a mold as a base. The latter involves mixtures and layers of resin, pigment and fiber glass mat. These processes have been used in a part of Lombok Island, and the experienced tukang from Lombok are now here sharing their knowledge with the local tukang from around east Flores.
It's been exciting, documenting the workshop by taking photos. Yesterday I stayed clear so as not to disturb the workshop, but during a second day of witnessing the same processes, I was antsy to get involved. Today I finally asked if I could participate in making a mold, and super-friendly Pak Amin (one of the tukang from Lombok) said of course! Working together with our driver, Pak Matias, who also until then had been on the sidelines, I started making a mold.
The moment I picked up the sponge and started applying wax to the Master, all the tukang around me stopped what they were doing to stare. After a moment, they began cheering me on in their own way, offering me bits of advice like, "Disini belum ada!" ("This spot here is missing some!"), and one even started taking photos of me with my camera. When I started to paint the pigment mixture on, one of them excitedly pointed out, "Bu, ada lobang disini!" ("Ma'am, there's a hole in this spot!"). I decided to interpret their advice as a way of showing support. Everyone just wanted to be helpful.
B. Gender
The workshop is made up of 28 participants, all male tukang from various regencies in Flores Timur, including some of the smaller islands further east. There are three tukang from Lombok that make up the trainers, as well as two or three local assistants/employees of YDD, all male.
Bu Chris, my boss, a female, is the primary organizer. Pak Rafael, another leader, is the head of YDD-Larantuka. Then there's me, the only foreigner, and the only other female attending the workshop next to Bu Chris.
Not attending the workshop, yet still critical to its success, are a group of five local women, including Pak Rafael's wife, who are responsible for the snacks, coffee, and tea during breaks that take place in the morning and in the afternoon. They come and hang out during these moments, so I've been able to talk to them a bit. These women have been making our delicious coffee, using beans roasted/"fried" a traditional way over a three-stoned fire.
Recognizing the primary role of women as cooks in this area, Bu Chris spent some time asking these women about their cooking habits, and whether or not they would be interested in trying out an improved cooking stove that uses kulit kemiri (candlenut shells) as fuel. The women seemed quite interested. This is actually another project that Bu Chris has been pursuing, and for which I helped edit a Nexus grant sometime last year (which, unfortunately, we didn't get.)
C. Indonesian Ethnic Groups
During this workshop, I've been able to witness the interaction between various ethnic groups in the same place. There's Bu Chris, an ethnically Chinese woman from Java, interacting with males from both Lombok and Flores, and women from Flores.
I can't say much besides that the interaction seems to be very positive. Bu Chris has been visiting Flores since 2010 on various STBM related projects, so she has established a strong connection with the YDD employees. As for the local tukang, everyone pays respect to Bu Chris, recognizing her position as a supervisor. Bu Chris in turn does a great job encouraging the capacity of everyone else present to get work done. Her role, she has told me on several occasions, is simply to make sure that things run smoothly and in an organized way. While the tukang from Lombok are good at training others, they may not necessarily know how to handle large groups of people, and that's when Bu Chris will step in as a leader.
There are a few things worth noting about ethnicity in Larantuka: many of the shop owners in the "downtown" area (a few streets near the waterfront) are either ethnically Chinese or from Makassar. I actually noticed this immediately, because Chinese-Indonesians tend to have fairer skin and straight hair, whereas people in Flores tend to have curlier hair and dark skin.
D. Entrepreneurship and Appropriate Technology
Bu Chris and I were talking about the Chinese presence, and she commented that local entrepreneurial drive is not particularly strong, with business opportunities instead taken up by outsiders who have to come Flores to settle down. That being said, women still play a vital role in the traditional markets, where they sell various commodities.
The hope, though, is for the workshop to stimulate local entrepreneurial ventures, especially for the establishment of STBM-related technology. YDD and SIMAVI's goal here, as with the cookstove project, is simply to stimulate the establishment of local markets. When combining demand (driven by increased awareness of the STBM five pillars) and supply (driven by the growth of manufacturing and the establishment of a local market), it all depends on the people. This in contrast to a top-down approach where items are disseminated, for example, by the government, and there's very little focus on capacity-building (this was seen in Watumilok in my previous entry.)
E. The White Guy
There is a white guy here, a participant named Demon (where the 'e' in Demon rhymes with the 'e' in 'went'). And no, he is not a foreigner. In fact, he comes from around here, born and raised. Flores is home to him.
According to Pak Rafael, there are other Indonesians like Demon who looks remarkably like a white westerner, and many of them are common in this area. Supposedly they are descendants of the Portuguese.
For me, this was a complete mind trip. I've heard of locals inheriting colored eyes from Europeans, but never the entire package. I struggled not to stare at him too much, and not to observe his behavior in such an obvious way.
I also had to re-wire my mind into thinking that this man, despite looking very much like a white westerner, might not practice any European-related customs. He speaks Indonesian and shares a similar culture with the other Flores tukang. So when he flipped his cap backwards and the thought of a "bro" popped into my mind, I mentally chuckled but immediately dissociated him with all the stereotypes that come with a backwards cap.
Indeed I want to ask this guy about a million questions about his family and his lineage, but the timing has never seemed right. Not only that, but I gotta think about how I'm going to ask without being offensive and weird about it! He comes off a bit more reserved than the others, but he's still polite in the same way, like when he said "Ayo!" to me, inviting me to come out for lunch.
I've noticed that the others who are meeting him for the first time have started calling him "Bule" in jest, and I wonder if he minds. Surely by now his own village is used to his appearance (especially if there are other white Indonesians like him), but people from other regencies may not be, and maybe he doesn't get this kind of attention very often.
F. Bonding with My Boss
The last few days have allowed me to really get to know my boss more, as we've had a lot of down time during breakfasts and dinners to chat. She reminds me a lot of my mother, somebody who is hard-working, not afraid to take risks, and thinks in a very logical way. Like my mother, she also knows when to take charge, is rather comfortable being behind the wheel, and can also speak up when something isn't right.
She's also caring towards others, and especially her children. She once expressed how she misses her daughter, who now lives in Bandung, because whenever her daughter is in town they'll usually do everything together -- shopping, cooking, baking, jalan-jalaning, etc. That's exactly the kind of stuff my mom and I do.
Actually, talking to Bu Chris makes me miss my mother very much.
G. Religion
Unlike Java, which is predominantly Muslim, Flores is predominantly Roman Catholic. Larantuka, in particular, is famous around Indonesia for a procession they hold every Easter for Mother Mary. (I really wish I could go.) There's also a small tiny island nearby, which appears to be covered in trees, except for a tiny section that showcases a giant statue of Jesus Christ. I saw it from a distance as we were driving in to town.
I told Bu Chris today that being in Larantuka actually reminded me a lot of the Philippines, especially Marinduque, the island where my dad grew up. Aside from the whole island thing, Marinduque also holds a procession during Easter, though the emphasis and history is different.
Pictures when I'm less sleepy. Tomorrow, I'm visiting a town called Wae Bau (?), where they're going to build some kind of rain catchment system...
A. The Making of Squat Toilets and Molds
The last few days I've had the pleasure of witnessing an artisan process of making squat toilets, as well as the molds that are used to create them. The former involves different layers and mixtures of cement, calcite, and sand, using a mold as a base. The latter involves mixtures and layers of resin, pigment and fiber glass mat. These processes have been used in a part of Lombok Island, and the experienced tukang from Lombok are now here sharing their knowledge with the local tukang from around east Flores.
The moment I picked up the sponge and started applying wax to the Master, all the tukang around me stopped what they were doing to stare. After a moment, they began cheering me on in their own way, offering me bits of advice like, "Disini belum ada!" ("This spot here is missing some!"), and one even started taking photos of me with my camera. When I started to paint the pigment mixture on, one of them excitedly pointed out, "Bu, ada lobang disini!" ("Ma'am, there's a hole in this spot!"). I decided to interpret their advice as a way of showing support. Everyone just wanted to be helpful.
B. Gender
The workshop is made up of 28 participants, all male tukang from various regencies in Flores Timur, including some of the smaller islands further east. There are three tukang from Lombok that make up the trainers, as well as two or three local assistants/employees of YDD, all male.
Bu Chris, my boss, a female, is the primary organizer. Pak Rafael, another leader, is the head of YDD-Larantuka. Then there's me, the only foreigner, and the only other female attending the workshop next to Bu Chris.
Not attending the workshop, yet still critical to its success, are a group of five local women, including Pak Rafael's wife, who are responsible for the snacks, coffee, and tea during breaks that take place in the morning and in the afternoon. They come and hang out during these moments, so I've been able to talk to them a bit. These women have been making our delicious coffee, using beans roasted/"fried" a traditional way over a three-stoned fire.
Recognizing the primary role of women as cooks in this area, Bu Chris spent some time asking these women about their cooking habits, and whether or not they would be interested in trying out an improved cooking stove that uses kulit kemiri (candlenut shells) as fuel. The women seemed quite interested. This is actually another project that Bu Chris has been pursuing, and for which I helped edit a Nexus grant sometime last year (which, unfortunately, we didn't get.)
C. Indonesian Ethnic Groups
During this workshop, I've been able to witness the interaction between various ethnic groups in the same place. There's Bu Chris, an ethnically Chinese woman from Java, interacting with males from both Lombok and Flores, and women from Flores.
I can't say much besides that the interaction seems to be very positive. Bu Chris has been visiting Flores since 2010 on various STBM related projects, so she has established a strong connection with the YDD employees. As for the local tukang, everyone pays respect to Bu Chris, recognizing her position as a supervisor. Bu Chris in turn does a great job encouraging the capacity of everyone else present to get work done. Her role, she has told me on several occasions, is simply to make sure that things run smoothly and in an organized way. While the tukang from Lombok are good at training others, they may not necessarily know how to handle large groups of people, and that's when Bu Chris will step in as a leader.
There are a few things worth noting about ethnicity in Larantuka: many of the shop owners in the "downtown" area (a few streets near the waterfront) are either ethnically Chinese or from Makassar. I actually noticed this immediately, because Chinese-Indonesians tend to have fairer skin and straight hair, whereas people in Flores tend to have curlier hair and dark skin.
D. Entrepreneurship and Appropriate Technology
Bu Chris and I were talking about the Chinese presence, and she commented that local entrepreneurial drive is not particularly strong, with business opportunities instead taken up by outsiders who have to come Flores to settle down. That being said, women still play a vital role in the traditional markets, where they sell various commodities.
The hope, though, is for the workshop to stimulate local entrepreneurial ventures, especially for the establishment of STBM-related technology. YDD and SIMAVI's goal here, as with the cookstove project, is simply to stimulate the establishment of local markets. When combining demand (driven by increased awareness of the STBM five pillars) and supply (driven by the growth of manufacturing and the establishment of a local market), it all depends on the people. This in contrast to a top-down approach where items are disseminated, for example, by the government, and there's very little focus on capacity-building (this was seen in Watumilok in my previous entry.)
E. The White Guy
There is a white guy here, a participant named Demon (where the 'e' in Demon rhymes with the 'e' in 'went'). And no, he is not a foreigner. In fact, he comes from around here, born and raised. Flores is home to him.
According to Pak Rafael, there are other Indonesians like Demon who looks remarkably like a white westerner, and many of them are common in this area. Supposedly they are descendants of the Portuguese.
For me, this was a complete mind trip. I've heard of locals inheriting colored eyes from Europeans, but never the entire package. I struggled not to stare at him too much, and not to observe his behavior in such an obvious way.
I also had to re-wire my mind into thinking that this man, despite looking very much like a white westerner, might not practice any European-related customs. He speaks Indonesian and shares a similar culture with the other Flores tukang. So when he flipped his cap backwards and the thought of a "bro" popped into my mind, I mentally chuckled but immediately dissociated him with all the stereotypes that come with a backwards cap.
Indeed I want to ask this guy about a million questions about his family and his lineage, but the timing has never seemed right. Not only that, but I gotta think about how I'm going to ask without being offensive and weird about it! He comes off a bit more reserved than the others, but he's still polite in the same way, like when he said "Ayo!" to me, inviting me to come out for lunch.
I've noticed that the others who are meeting him for the first time have started calling him "Bule" in jest, and I wonder if he minds. Surely by now his own village is used to his appearance (especially if there are other white Indonesians like him), but people from other regencies may not be, and maybe he doesn't get this kind of attention very often.
F. Bonding with My Boss
The last few days have allowed me to really get to know my boss more, as we've had a lot of down time during breakfasts and dinners to chat. She reminds me a lot of my mother, somebody who is hard-working, not afraid to take risks, and thinks in a very logical way. Like my mother, she also knows when to take charge, is rather comfortable being behind the wheel, and can also speak up when something isn't right.
She's also caring towards others, and especially her children. She once expressed how she misses her daughter, who now lives in Bandung, because whenever her daughter is in town they'll usually do everything together -- shopping, cooking, baking, jalan-jalaning, etc. That's exactly the kind of stuff my mom and I do.
Actually, talking to Bu Chris makes me miss my mother very much.
G. Religion
Unlike Java, which is predominantly Muslim, Flores is predominantly Roman Catholic. Larantuka, in particular, is famous around Indonesia for a procession they hold every Easter for Mother Mary. (I really wish I could go.) There's also a small tiny island nearby, which appears to be covered in trees, except for a tiny section that showcases a giant statue of Jesus Christ. I saw it from a distance as we were driving in to town.
I told Bu Chris today that being in Larantuka actually reminded me a lot of the Philippines, especially Marinduque, the island where my dad grew up. Aside from the whole island thing, Marinduque also holds a procession during Easter, though the emphasis and history is different.
Pictures when I'm less sleepy. Tomorrow, I'm visiting a town called Wae Bau (?), where they're going to build some kind of rain catchment system...
Monday, March 24, 2014
Day 4: Not Quite Selfless
During my interactions with people back home, I've gotten a lot of compliments for my current fellowship, as if the work I'm doing in Indonesia is some kind of altruistic thing. Well I want to set the record straight and tell you right now that it's not true. To suggest I'm being purely selfless in my actions would be a bit of a stretch.
No, I came out here for rather selfish reasons, and I was reminded of this today when I was sitting there at the workshop site, on top of a hill in Larantuka, east Flores, taking a break and drinking tubruk-style coffee made of locally obtained and roasted beans. Surrounded by women and men with only good intentions for their communities, I drank and laughed and tried my best to fit in. Every now and then, I would glance at the coconut trees and the mountains off in the distance, and I would shake my head in disbelief at what I was seeing.
I realized that I live for these kinds of moments. My heart melts completely, meeting people in the land they call home, enjoying their lifestyle and aspirations together with them, helping out where I can. Even if I am perpetually the hopeless and awkward foreigner.
So then I get to thinking, what does this all mean? Maybe it means I'm doomed. If I go back home and look back on Indonesia as only a "fond memory", I don't think I could be happy. Indeed I think that moments of volunteering in Seattle were some of my happiest, especially when I got to mentor Dhan; and even Boeing had its good parts, without which I wouldn't have a unique network of amazing friends.
But I think I'll forever be craving moments like this, being with people whose lifestyles are just so different from what I know. There's a thrill I get from living in new places, new landscapes, while meeting new friends and coming to appreciate what they value most, especially when it's something I've often taken for granted — in the case of this workshop, toilets. And if, in some small way, I can use my skills to help advance this community's goals for the betterment of their future, that's what I'll do. (Not that I'm doing anything special at this workshop. I'm merely playing the part of a photographer.)
I gotta find some way to tame this craving, or better yet keep it fed, no matter where I am.
ps) I posted some photos for the last entry, Day 3: Larantuka, seaside YDD
No, I came out here for rather selfish reasons, and I was reminded of this today when I was sitting there at the workshop site, on top of a hill in Larantuka, east Flores, taking a break and drinking tubruk-style coffee made of locally obtained and roasted beans. Surrounded by women and men with only good intentions for their communities, I drank and laughed and tried my best to fit in. Every now and then, I would glance at the coconut trees and the mountains off in the distance, and I would shake my head in disbelief at what I was seeing.
I realized that I live for these kinds of moments. My heart melts completely, meeting people in the land they call home, enjoying their lifestyle and aspirations together with them, helping out where I can. Even if I am perpetually the hopeless and awkward foreigner.
So then I get to thinking, what does this all mean? Maybe it means I'm doomed. If I go back home and look back on Indonesia as only a "fond memory", I don't think I could be happy. Indeed I think that moments of volunteering in Seattle were some of my happiest, especially when I got to mentor Dhan; and even Boeing had its good parts, without which I wouldn't have a unique network of amazing friends.
But I think I'll forever be craving moments like this, being with people whose lifestyles are just so different from what I know. There's a thrill I get from living in new places, new landscapes, while meeting new friends and coming to appreciate what they value most, especially when it's something I've often taken for granted — in the case of this workshop, toilets. And if, in some small way, I can use my skills to help advance this community's goals for the betterment of their future, that's what I'll do. (Not that I'm doing anything special at this workshop. I'm merely playing the part of a photographer.)
I gotta find some way to tame this craving, or better yet keep it fed, no matter where I am.
ps) I posted some photos for the last entry, Day 3: Larantuka, seaside YDD
Sunday, March 23, 2014
Day 3: Larantuka, seaside YDD
Three hours and a shoulder-smashing windy road later, we've made it to our destination. The good news is, I didn't get horribly carsick, like I did during that ride to Moni last summer. The bad news is, my camera's SD card is nowhere to be found. I discovered it was missing when we stopped to take photos of a large tree infested with about 20 beehives. Just my luck.
Now that we are the site of our workshop, I've been taking photos of our Lombok friends using my phone. Admittedly I feel naked without being able to express myself using my Nikon...
**Update** Crisis averted! Pak Amsel found my SD card back in the home stay and now I'm borrowing Bu Chris's card to take photos with my camera. Feel loads better.
I just squished about five mosquitoes in preparation for this afternoon's nap. I think there are still two more hiding underneath my bed. We are currently staying at the YDD office in Larantuka. Place is gorgeous; you step out the door and you face the ocean and several nearby islands. Pictures when my Internet connection improves.
Now that we are the site of our workshop, I've been taking photos of our Lombok friends using my phone. Admittedly I feel naked without being able to express myself using my Nikon...
**Update** Crisis averted! Pak Amsel found my SD card back in the home stay and now I'm borrowing Bu Chris's card to take photos with my camera. Feel loads better.
I just squished about five mosquitoes in preparation for this afternoon's nap. I think there are still two more hiding underneath my bed. We are currently staying at the YDD office in Larantuka. Place is gorgeous; you step out the door and you face the ocean and several nearby islands. Pictures when my Internet connection improves.
Saturday, March 22, 2014
Day Two: Field Visits, Avocado, and Dog Meat
Well I finally did it. I finally ate dog meat.
But before we go into that, let me give the scoop on today's events, because a lot of stuff went down that I don't want to forget.
Started off the day with a visit to YDD's "kebun" (garden), a seven hectare plot of land right by the sea. This is where they manufacture toilet prototypes and work on other STBM-related projects. It's also a famous site to visit Gua Maria, a worship site for Mother Mary. According to Bu Chris, many Catholic tourists come to make pilgrimage.
Bu Chris asked me to accompany Pak Yos, a staff member of YDD-Maumere, to visit a few desa (village) sites for monitoring and evaluation, something "more interesting" than witnessing all the tukang discuss plans for the upcoming workshop. Since I was under the impression that there weren't going to be a lot of field visits during this trip, I was pleasantly surprised and eager to go.
Pak Yos and I went first to desa Watumilok. Regarding sanitation, YDD does not currently have a partnership with Watumilok, but is interested in monitoring the use (or lack thereof) of a public bathroom that was erected by the Indonesian government back in 2011. Pak Yos first asked several villagers, ranging from young to old, and kept hearing inconsistent responses. We couldn't get a clear picture of whether or not the locals actually used the bathroom.
Finally, after speaking with a family who lives next to the public bathroom, Pak Yos confirmed that the bathroom is now obsolete and locked up. After its erection, something went wrong with the piping system, and since there was no monitoring system set up by the government, the bathroom no longer functions as originally intended. Locals initially tried to continue using it by bringing well water in buckets, but that eventually became tiresome, and there was always never enough water. Another issue was of cleanliness. Since there were no community funds to provide compensation for a cleaner, the bathroom got dirty very quickly. The man who kept the key to the stalls eventually became fed up with the state of the place and locked it up. When we visited today, all the bathroom stalls were still locked. Without a functioning public bathroom, and with many homes without a WC, many villagers still go to the beach to relieve themselves. According to Pak Yos, this was a classic example of a failed governmental project, embedded with corruption and poor planning.
After Watumilok, we went to a coastal village called Wae Pare, where house are built on stilts above the water. I asked Pak Yos if this kind of village is common in Flores, and he said, no, this was the only one of its kind, and the architecture was likely brought over from Sulawesi. I learned from Pak Yos that many of the people who live by the water are actually descendants of people who migrated from Sulawesi several generations ago.
YDD does not currently have a partnership with Wae Pare, but it sounds like it may be a possibility in the future. Apparently there are some WCs inland, but at night, when people don't want to venture out, people dump their waste in the water out of convenience. I asked Pak Yos if kids ever play or swim in the water, and he quickly pointed out a kid about 10-years-old who was wading waist high in the water below us.
The final sites we visited were Langir and Watu Liwung, two villages that YDD has a long-time partnership with. After working together with YDD for 4 years, Langir is about ready to declare STBM-status with the government. Receiving status means that the village meets a level of sanitation standard that is self-sustaining and maintained by the villagers. This means proper education, especially for children, concerning good sanitation habits, as well as access to bathrooms and clean water. As for Watu Liwung, YDD has been working with them since 2008, and although there have been delays, it sounds like they're almost ready, too.
After visiting all these places, Pak Yos and I stopped for lunch at a Javanese warung. According to Pak Yos, most of the restaurants/warung in Flores are actually owned by Javanese people. That explains why it was so hard to find "local food" when I was traveling in Flores last August. I told Pak Yos about this, and he said, oh if you want local food, we have to wait for tonight's night market! That's where I ate dog for the first time, but wait…
First, the avocados. According to Bu Chris, Flores has the tastiest avocados in Indonesia. Pak Yos agreed and informed me that Flores avocados won some kind of national competition. Eager to try some, I purchased a few avocados from a local day market. Upon returning home this evening, I asked the home stay cooks if they could blend me a juice using a few small green ones. Indeed, the avocados are enak sekali. I can't wait to try the big brown one! They said mine should be ready in a couple days.
After resting in the afternoon, Pak Yos took me to the local night market, where, at the very edge next to all the Javanese stalls, was a small warung for makanan khas Maumere. Options were red rice, ubi rebus (boiled cassava), stir fry papaya leaves, RW (dog meat), and darah babi (pork with pork blood, similar to the Filipino dinuguan). We decided to get everything except for the vegetables, because we weren't very hungry and I was more eager to try stuff I hadn't had before. The dog meat was surprisingly tender, contrary to reports I've heard about it being tough. I suspect the stew, prepared with a lot of local spices, simmered for a long time. Admittedly, I enjoyed eating it, though I might not be craving it any time soon.
Pak Yos is super nice. Apparently back in the day he went to seminary school to become a priest, and was very set on doing that up until he met his wife in Jakarta and decided to settle down with her in Timor. In Timor he worked as a teacher for seven years before getting his job at YDD in Flores, where he's been working for 17 years. His wife and a few of his younger kids are still in Timor, which is about a day's worth of travel, but he tries to visit them once every three months.
Tomorrow we set off for Flotim, or Flores Timor...
But before we go into that, let me give the scoop on today's events, because a lot of stuff went down that I don't want to forget.
Started off the day with a visit to YDD's "kebun" (garden), a seven hectare plot of land right by the sea. This is where they manufacture toilet prototypes and work on other STBM-related projects. It's also a famous site to visit Gua Maria, a worship site for Mother Mary. According to Bu Chris, many Catholic tourists come to make pilgrimage.
Bu Chris asked me to accompany Pak Yos, a staff member of YDD-Maumere, to visit a few desa (village) sites for monitoring and evaluation, something "more interesting" than witnessing all the tukang discuss plans for the upcoming workshop. Since I was under the impression that there weren't going to be a lot of field visits during this trip, I was pleasantly surprised and eager to go.
Pak Yos and I went first to desa Watumilok. Regarding sanitation, YDD does not currently have a partnership with Watumilok, but is interested in monitoring the use (or lack thereof) of a public bathroom that was erected by the Indonesian government back in 2011. Pak Yos first asked several villagers, ranging from young to old, and kept hearing inconsistent responses. We couldn't get a clear picture of whether or not the locals actually used the bathroom.
Finally, after speaking with a family who lives next to the public bathroom, Pak Yos confirmed that the bathroom is now obsolete and locked up. After its erection, something went wrong with the piping system, and since there was no monitoring system set up by the government, the bathroom no longer functions as originally intended. Locals initially tried to continue using it by bringing well water in buckets, but that eventually became tiresome, and there was always never enough water. Another issue was of cleanliness. Since there were no community funds to provide compensation for a cleaner, the bathroom got dirty very quickly. The man who kept the key to the stalls eventually became fed up with the state of the place and locked it up. When we visited today, all the bathroom stalls were still locked. Without a functioning public bathroom, and with many homes without a WC, many villagers still go to the beach to relieve themselves. According to Pak Yos, this was a classic example of a failed governmental project, embedded with corruption and poor planning.
YDD does not currently have a partnership with Wae Pare, but it sounds like it may be a possibility in the future. Apparently there are some WCs inland, but at night, when people don't want to venture out, people dump their waste in the water out of convenience. I asked Pak Yos if kids ever play or swim in the water, and he quickly pointed out a kid about 10-years-old who was wading waist high in the water below us.
After visiting all these places, Pak Yos and I stopped for lunch at a Javanese warung. According to Pak Yos, most of the restaurants/warung in Flores are actually owned by Javanese people. That explains why it was so hard to find "local food" when I was traveling in Flores last August. I told Pak Yos about this, and he said, oh if you want local food, we have to wait for tonight's night market! That's where I ate dog for the first time, but wait…
First, the avocados. According to Bu Chris, Flores has the tastiest avocados in Indonesia. Pak Yos agreed and informed me that Flores avocados won some kind of national competition. Eager to try some, I purchased a few avocados from a local day market. Upon returning home this evening, I asked the home stay cooks if they could blend me a juice using a few small green ones. Indeed, the avocados are enak sekali. I can't wait to try the big brown one! They said mine should be ready in a couple days.
Pak Yos is super nice. Apparently back in the day he went to seminary school to become a priest, and was very set on doing that up until he met his wife in Jakarta and decided to settle down with her in Timor. In Timor he worked as a teacher for seven years before getting his job at YDD in Flores, where he's been working for 17 years. His wife and a few of his younger kids are still in Timor, which is about a day's worth of travel, but he tries to visit them once every three months.
Tomorrow we set off for Flotim, or Flores Timor...
Friday, March 21, 2014
Day 1: Maumere
Day one of Flores has introduced a lot of new faces, and I'm willing myself to become a friendly sponge again. If Indonesia has taught me anything, it's that making an effort to be present is important, no matter how out of place I may feel, and although I still spend a lot of time laughing when I don't understand, I've found that this kind of "awkward interaction" is often a necessary first step to making friends. Being present also means asking a lot of questions in order to facilitate some kind of exchange. So far, this simple practice of asking about somebody else's life has been incredibly helpful in learning more about Indonesia.
Today I spent time under the sun, chatting with a group of tukang (1) from Lombok, trainers of the two upcoming workshops on toilet construction. The workshops will take place in two different locations, one near Maumere in the Sikka regency, and the other in east Flores, in a town called Larantuka about three hours away from Maumere. I'll be attending the session in Larantuka with my boss, Bu Chris, though to be honest I'm not looking forward to the long and winding road we'll be taking to get there…
The participants/learners will be tukang from Flores, and the aim of the workshop is to provide them with the knowledge and skill sets to launch their own entrepreneurial ventures, thus improving their livelihood while at the same time injecting affordable and sanitary toilets to the market. It's all part of the broader governmental mission of STBM (community-based total sanitation), although this particular project is organized primarily by grassroots organizations, including SIMAVI and YDD.
I should also mention that the place we're staying at is absolutely gorgeous, an affordable resort by the beach...
(1) tukang: artisans
Today I spent time under the sun, chatting with a group of tukang (1) from Lombok, trainers of the two upcoming workshops on toilet construction. The workshops will take place in two different locations, one near Maumere in the Sikka regency, and the other in east Flores, in a town called Larantuka about three hours away from Maumere. I'll be attending the session in Larantuka with my boss, Bu Chris, though to be honest I'm not looking forward to the long and winding road we'll be taking to get there…
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| two tukang from Lombok |
I should also mention that the place we're staying at is absolutely gorgeous, an affordable resort by the beach...
(1) tukang: artisans
Thursday, March 20, 2014
Sweet Week
Action-packed week so far, full of friendship and Jogja! Photos to follow. Leaving for Flores tomorrow...
Sunday - Gudeg, Malioboro, angkringan, and pengamen with Maté and Anna
Monday - Nothing warms the soul like live jazz at a parking lot in a tropical country. Jazz Mben Senen takes place every Monday night and serves as a venue for local musicians to practice their art for a chilled-out audience. We started the night off with ice cream (Maté had durian and Anna had lychee) and ended it with ronde (1), the latter of which was sold by a random Bapak roaming the streets at 11pm. MCs of the show thought I was Thai, maybe because I was hanging with all the bule (2).
Tuesday - Considering that Agung and I both love coffee, holding our IELTS study session at a coffeeshop may not have been the smartest idea. Before we even got started, the owner, Don, sat down with us and showed us how to make siphoned coffee. He was a super friendly guy, patiently answering our questions and sharing candid stories about his business. The guy knows his stuff.
Love the place. Kopi Item is the most versatile coffeeshop in Jogja that I've encountered so far. They aim to maximum their supply of Indonesian single-origin beans (their count now is 25 types) and also know how to brew in many styles (kind of rare in Jogja). Their brew styles include Indonesian tubruk (2), siphoned, French press, espresso, pour over (i.e. American drip), and Vietnamese drip. Next month they have a coffee-brewing lesson, which I'm considering attending...
Wednesday - Maté and Anna's last night in town brought us to reggae night at Cafe Bintang, a reoccurring concert that's popular with expats, travelers, and locals alike. Our friend Dywal (from Flores) plays in the band, so it's always fun to show our support by dancing in the small crowd. My friends Grace, Zaki, Julianne, Ade, and Matt were there too.
And for the near future:
Thursday - planning to watch the Ramayana Ballet at Prambanan Temple, in which my friend Zoë will be performing. A chemist turned English teacher, turned student again, Zoë is currently on a darmasiswa scholarship, studying Seni Tari (dance arts) at an arts school in Surakarta, Jogja's neighboring city. A few days ago she secured yet another scholarship, this time for graduate school in Southeast Asian studies at Michigan, beginning this fall. This lady is rockin' it.
Friday - Tomorrow morning, I'm flying to Flores with my boss for a week-long training session on pour-flush toilet construction, followed by four days in Bali to visit my VIA counterpart, Toku!
(1) ronde: a ginger-based "soup" snack, containing flour balls with peanut filling, gelatin pieces, bread, and peanuts.
(2) bule: Indonesian word for "foreigner"
(3) tubruk: a common way to brew coffee in Indonesia, which involves directly mixing boiled water with finely ground coffee and sugar.
Sunday - Gudeg, Malioboro, angkringan, and pengamen with Maté and Anna
Monday - Nothing warms the soul like live jazz at a parking lot in a tropical country. Jazz Mben Senen takes place every Monday night and serves as a venue for local musicians to practice their art for a chilled-out audience. We started the night off with ice cream (Maté had durian and Anna had lychee) and ended it with ronde (1), the latter of which was sold by a random Bapak roaming the streets at 11pm. MCs of the show thought I was Thai, maybe because I was hanging with all the bule (2).
Tuesday - Considering that Agung and I both love coffee, holding our IELTS study session at a coffeeshop may not have been the smartest idea. Before we even got started, the owner, Don, sat down with us and showed us how to make siphoned coffee. He was a super friendly guy, patiently answering our questions and sharing candid stories about his business. The guy knows his stuff.
Love the place. Kopi Item is the most versatile coffeeshop in Jogja that I've encountered so far. They aim to maximum their supply of Indonesian single-origin beans (their count now is 25 types) and also know how to brew in many styles (kind of rare in Jogja). Their brew styles include Indonesian tubruk (2), siphoned, French press, espresso, pour over (i.e. American drip), and Vietnamese drip. Next month they have a coffee-brewing lesson, which I'm considering attending...
Wednesday - Maté and Anna's last night in town brought us to reggae night at Cafe Bintang, a reoccurring concert that's popular with expats, travelers, and locals alike. Our friend Dywal (from Flores) plays in the band, so it's always fun to show our support by dancing in the small crowd. My friends Grace, Zaki, Julianne, Ade, and Matt were there too.
And for the near future:
Thursday - planning to watch the Ramayana Ballet at Prambanan Temple, in which my friend Zoë will be performing. A chemist turned English teacher, turned student again, Zoë is currently on a darmasiswa scholarship, studying Seni Tari (dance arts) at an arts school in Surakarta, Jogja's neighboring city. A few days ago she secured yet another scholarship, this time for graduate school in Southeast Asian studies at Michigan, beginning this fall. This lady is rockin' it.
Friday - Tomorrow morning, I'm flying to Flores with my boss for a week-long training session on pour-flush toilet construction, followed by four days in Bali to visit my VIA counterpart, Toku!
(1) ronde: a ginger-based "soup" snack, containing flour balls with peanut filling, gelatin pieces, bread, and peanuts.
(2) bule: Indonesian word for "foreigner"
(3) tubruk: a common way to brew coffee in Indonesia, which involves directly mixing boiled water with finely ground coffee and sugar.
Monday, March 17, 2014
Hungarians in Jogjakarta
Last night I spent time with Maté and Anna, two friends from Hungary who are currently traveling through Indonesia. Maté is an old friend whom I first met in Delft, Netherlands, where we both studied for a semester in 2007. We haven't seen each in the last seven years, and our reunion happened in Jogja of all cities.
After meeting at Fort Vredeburg, we biked to a restaurant near the Sultan's Palace and tried gudeg (1), a Jogja dish that's quickly becoming comfort food for me. After that, we stopped by J.Co for avocado dicaprio donuts, walked our bicycles through the crowds of Malioboro Street, and shared conversation at an angkringan (2) north of the Tugu train station. When we got there, one of the angkringan guys quickly ushered us to a spot on the mats to sit down, and I ordered kopi joss (3), es tape (4), sate usus (5), and pisang aroma (6).
A group of pengamen (7) came by as we were sipping on our drinks, two guys on guitar and one guy on a drum. I requested one of my favorite Indonesian rock ballads, Jogjakarta by KLA Project, a love song focused around the city in which I currently live.
The musicians did a beautiful job singing their hearts out, though I imagine the song is pretty easy to project emotion into. There's a refrain at end when the singers repeat a few heartbreaking lines in earnest, and it's hard not to feel the sentiment at that moment. While they were playing, I did my best to translate for my friends, but it became painfully clear that I still didn't understand about 80% of the lyrics.
So today, I finally made an effort to translate the song, aiming to understand the meaning behind each line. According to my co-workers, the lyrics are extremely poetic, containing words not commonly found in everyday conversation. They patiently explained the various connotations, which helped me develop the translation.
(1) Gudeg: an iconic Jogja dish, a stew made from made from jackfruit and palm sugar, usually served with protein (tofu / tempe / chicken), egg, and the inner layer of a cow's skin.
(2) Angkringan: a general term for a street-side eatery, for which Jogja is famous. People usually sit on bamboo mats on the sidewalk, enjoying drinks and snacks while street musicians pass by. Angkringan are known for having very cheap food and drinks, so my students have sometimes referred to the food as "makanan mahasiswa" (student food), because of how affordable it is.
(3) Kopi joss: one of the most famous drinks to be found in a Jogja angkringan, this is coffee made by dropping a burning hot piece of charcoal into the glass.
(4) Es tape: an iced drink made from fermented cassava.
(5) Sate usus: chicken intestine on a skewer.
(6) Pisang aroma: fried banana egg roll, very similar to the Filipino turon.
(7) Pengamen: street musicians.
After meeting at Fort Vredeburg, we biked to a restaurant near the Sultan's Palace and tried gudeg (1), a Jogja dish that's quickly becoming comfort food for me. After that, we stopped by J.Co for avocado dicaprio donuts, walked our bicycles through the crowds of Malioboro Street, and shared conversation at an angkringan (2) north of the Tugu train station. When we got there, one of the angkringan guys quickly ushered us to a spot on the mats to sit down, and I ordered kopi joss (3), es tape (4), sate usus (5), and pisang aroma (6).
A group of pengamen (7) came by as we were sipping on our drinks, two guys on guitar and one guy on a drum. I requested one of my favorite Indonesian rock ballads, Jogjakarta by KLA Project, a love song focused around the city in which I currently live.
The musicians did a beautiful job singing their hearts out, though I imagine the song is pretty easy to project emotion into. There's a refrain at end when the singers repeat a few heartbreaking lines in earnest, and it's hard not to feel the sentiment at that moment. While they were playing, I did my best to translate for my friends, but it became painfully clear that I still didn't understand about 80% of the lyrics.
So today, I finally made an effort to translate the song, aiming to understand the meaning behind each line. According to my co-workers, the lyrics are extremely poetic, containing words not commonly found in everyday conversation. They patiently explained the various connotations, which helped me develop the translation.
Coming home to your city,I'm filled completely with longing.It's still the same as long ago;every corner is friendly, full of a thousand meanings.I become flooded by nostalgia,thinking of when we used to spend timetogether, enjoyingthe atmosphere of Jogja.At the intersection, my feet come to a stop.Food stalls are crowded,selling tasty specialties,and people sit cross-legged.Street musicians begin to playin rhythm to my sorrow of losing you.Weeping in pain, alone,my heartsickness is swallowed by the bustle of your city.Although you haven't returned,your city continues to remind me of your smile.Please allow me to always come homewhenever my heart feels empty and broken.
(1) Gudeg: an iconic Jogja dish, a stew made from made from jackfruit and palm sugar, usually served with protein (tofu / tempe / chicken), egg, and the inner layer of a cow's skin.
(2) Angkringan: a general term for a street-side eatery, for which Jogja is famous. People usually sit on bamboo mats on the sidewalk, enjoying drinks and snacks while street musicians pass by. Angkringan are known for having very cheap food and drinks, so my students have sometimes referred to the food as "makanan mahasiswa" (student food), because of how affordable it is.
(3) Kopi joss: one of the most famous drinks to be found in a Jogja angkringan, this is coffee made by dropping a burning hot piece of charcoal into the glass.
(4) Es tape: an iced drink made from fermented cassava.
(5) Sate usus: chicken intestine on a skewer.
(6) Pisang aroma: fried banana egg roll, very similar to the Filipino turon.
(7) Pengamen: street musicians.
Monday, March 10, 2014
Daily Dose
A few happy things that today has brought so far:
1) 8.5 hours of sleep. I'm finally breaking the Harry Potter spell!
2) A birthday package from my good friend Ian who lives in Jakarta. He was one of the first Indonesians to show me around Jogja when I first visited as a backpacker in 2009.
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3) An invitation from my boss to visit Flores, an island in East Nusa Tenggara (NTT), for a week-long training on toilet construction in support of the Sanitation, Hygeine and Water (SHAW) program, of which my org YDD is actively involved. This would be followed by a 3-4 day visit to Bali to visit my VIA counterpart, Toku, whose work in Bali has been focused on capacity-building and seeking potential markets in support of Muntigunung's social enterprise efforts. Super stoked!
1) 8.5 hours of sleep. I'm finally breaking the Harry Potter spell!
2) A birthday package from my good friend Ian who lives in Jakarta. He was one of the first Indonesians to show me around Jogja when I first visited as a backpacker in 2009.
3) An invitation from my boss to visit Flores, an island in East Nusa Tenggara (NTT), for a week-long training on toilet construction in support of the Sanitation, Hygeine and Water (SHAW) program, of which my org YDD is actively involved. This would be followed by a 3-4 day visit to Bali to visit my VIA counterpart, Toku, whose work in Bali has been focused on capacity-building and seeking potential markets in support of Muntigunung's social enterprise efforts. Super stoked!
Friday, March 7, 2014
Another Birthday in Indonesia
It maybe goes without saying that my time in Jogja has been heavily influenced by the people I've met. Through these friendships I've learned how to live, how to adapt, how to participate, and how to make sense of what I experience. Through these friendships I've learned how to appreciate Indonesia.
I consider myself lucky because not everybody gets two years abroad. And in the last year and a half, I've followed these friends through some very significant life moments. I've followed them through job interviews, career transitions, unemployment, scholarship attainment, pregnancies, senior presentations, birthdays, and the launching of entrepreneurial ventures. I feel honored to be a part of their memories and to be able to share our time together.
Last night, these friends -- people I've met from various activities and groups -- came over to celebrate my birthday. There were a few friends who were unable to attend, but I'm so grateful that many people could still make it. And although everyone was coming from different social circles, I was happy to see them get along. My face hurt afterwards from smiling and laughing.
What was missing, of course, were my family and friends back home. But they still celebrated with me from a distance. Thanks, guys. I feel very loved. :)
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| Family-style photo with friends from different social circles |
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| Friends sitting lesehan-style in my living room, enjoying rambutan, salak, jeruk, and bakpia |
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| Me with Widya, Donald, and kids (this photo was actually taken a month ago... unfortunately, I didn't take photos with this family last night!) |
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| Me with my PIA friend, Julianne, who is also in her second year |
Not pictured but totally present was an assortment of snack food:
- sate ayam sama lontong: chicken satay and rice cakes cooked in banana leaf, brought by Widya's family.
- salak: snakefruit, brought by Inu/Melly/Sani/Lanny
- jeruk: oranges, brought by Ly
- rambutan: the hairy fruit I described in "On the Senses", brought by Ly
- spiced edam and feta: locally made by Indrakila Cheese and brought by Lanny. They also make a camembert-style cheese, which I really need to try.
- crackers: the kind that go well "dengan keju", brought by Matt
- keripik tempe: tempeh chips, brought by Matt
- bakpia: pastries special to Jogja that resemble the Filipino hopia, flavored with kacang ijo (mung beans), chocolate, and kraft cheese. Brought by Bibi and Fidel
- churros with chocolate sauce: made by a food stand on Jakal, brought by Julianne and Ade
- blackforest cake: brought by yours truly
- guava juice, orange juice, pop - brought by Ly, Julianne and Grace
Monday, March 3, 2014
Saturday, March 1, 2014
Thinking of Bread, Harry Potter, and the Future
Starting to feel the excitement and fear that comes with an impending life transition. On the one hand, I'm still busy preparing for our new cookstove lab at work, teaching English on the side, and doing daily things like cook tofu for dinner. On the other hand, I've also been searching job websites with an increased vigor, thinking more about grad school, and daydreaming about the evergreens of the Pacific NW. The attempt to balance these two situational realities (one here, one there) has led to a reaction of both mind and body: indulging in my childhood fantasies through Harry Potter films, and staying up until 2am each night. I'm a little sleep deprived at the moment, feeling a little down. It's possible I've been lonely.
But I'm trying to fight it. I need to fight it. Tonight I'll force myself to go out with my friend, Lanny, who is visiting Jogja from Jakarta, where she works for the UK Dept. for International Development**. This morning she went to the Milas farmer's market and picked up some Bumi Langit sourdough bread. Really excited about this, because when we visited Bumi Langit a few months ago, the bread was still in prototype phase and wasn't on sale (though we were lucky enough to try!) It ranks up there as one of the best breads I've ever tasted.
This will be a carb-ful weekend for sure... and it won't be from rice!
**edit: False! She's actually doing freelance consultation at the moment, and is currently in the beginning stages of setting up an organic market in Jakarta, one that'll sell locally-sourced produce and artisan products!
But I'm trying to fight it. I need to fight it. Tonight I'll force myself to go out with my friend, Lanny, who is visiting Jogja from Jakarta, where she works for the UK Dept. for International Development**. This morning she went to the Milas farmer's market and picked up some Bumi Langit sourdough bread. Really excited about this, because when we visited Bumi Langit a few months ago, the bread was still in prototype phase and wasn't on sale (though we were lucky enough to try!) It ranks up there as one of the best breads I've ever tasted.
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| Bumi Langit sourdough bread made with 4-5 different grains, including sorghum |
**edit: False! She's actually doing freelance consultation at the moment, and is currently in the beginning stages of setting up an organic market in Jakarta, one that'll sell locally-sourced produce and artisan products!
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